The traditional pub exterior complete with stained glass windows, bearing the legends ‘bar’ and ‘smoking room’, belies the spare, modern interior of this new Chinese restaurant. I hear some of you say, “A Chinese restaurant isn’t supposed to be modern”, but this is the new wave of restaurants from this region of the world. This is the era of our two national favourite cuisines (Indian and Chinese) coming of age. And as they come of age, they seek to establish an identity of their own, different (not better) to that of their predecessors. Think of the impact rock ‘n’ roll had on teenagers in the 1950s. While the likes of Mr Pangs may be said to be the ancestors (incidentally also full on the same evening - I checked on the way home), Voujon, Royal Fusion in Uffington and Beijing Rendezvous are the second generation offspring flexing their muscles. Literally, in the case of the latter judging by the look of the rather young-looking Leo Wu, of the family who own this restaurant, or perhaps this is simply a touch of the old adage about policemen! They no longer have to simply educate us in the ways of these ‘foreign’ cuisines, they have to compete against the restaurant experience of other establishments in securing a share of the ‘eating out’ pound.
Situated on the corner of Star Lane where it meets St Paul’s Street, the location itself further epitomises this sense of change and regeneration. Star Lane is in the process of being revitalised, while going around the corner one literally sees how a corner has already been turned in St Paul’s Street, evidenced by the flourishing local businesses to be found there-Attic Weekend, Miss Pickering, The Hair House, Simpole Clark, and the Tobie Norris. An eclectic, individual atmosphere pervades this little enclave.
But what of the Beijing Rendezvous? Arriving for an early-ish (7.30pm) Saturday supper with the children (children seem to love Chinese food and ours had high expectations having recently spent a long summer in Singapore and Thailand), we were quickly shown to our table, but with no offers to take our coats. Around four other tables were already occupied, principally by older groups of diners. Later the arrival of a large group of twentysomethings readdressed the balance, and a group of ‘private party goers’ were ushered into the function room.
What of the food? Specialising in Peking and Cantonese cuisine the menu is extensive and without surprises. After a short deliberation, eschewing starters we settled on a range of dishes to satisfy our varying palates - steamed Sea bass with ginger, coriander (heavenly) and spring onions (two available fresh daily), Singapore noodles with egg and prawns, seasonal Chinese greens, chicken in Oyster sauce and soft fried noodles with bean sprouts. The food was fresh, clean tasting and with a clarity of spicing – garlic, ginger, chilli and sesame. The absence of glutinous saucing which so often mars Chinese food meant the subtlety and layering of the flavours was evident. Drinking jasmine or green tea with the food as the Chinese do would no doubt have enhanced the flavour of the dishes, but sadly dear reader we indulged instead in a bottle of Moondarra. However, the food seemed to prove robust enough to cope with this challenge. If puddings are your thing I fear you may be disappointed. The only desserts currently are a toffee apple or toffee banana, but I gather they are very, very sweet so may satisfy a simple sweet tooth!
On reflection an appetiser may have been a good idea to fill the void between ordering and the arrival of the food (there was a wait given that the place was full) and to enrich the experience of the variety of tastes and flavours that is at the heart of this type eating.
A tip, wear something warm. The draught from the old windows coupled with the slightly glaring tone of the lighting conspired to create a rather cool experience early in the evening. These however are probably no more than teething issues, as the lighting at least was adjusted before the end of the evening.
As we left I remarked on two small red slips of paper bearing Chinese characters fixed to the wall and door. As I imagined they were incantations of good luck. To them I add my own. Another restaurant can only add to the choice we have in Stamford.
In a nutshell: Promising new Chinese in modern surroundings
Signature dish: Sizzling beef in a fruity sauce
Typical price for two, including wine and tip £40-50
Special features: Private function room seats 20, Lunch Mon-Thu £5, main + seaweed side. Buffet Fri £7.90
Opening times: Mon-Sat 12-2, 6-11 Sun 12-2.30, 6-10.30
Contact details: Beijing Rendezvous 6 St Paul’s Street, Stamford Tel: 01780 763857